{"id":3808,"date":"2022-03-25T15:27:00","date_gmt":"2022-03-25T19:27:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/macchiinc.com\/?p=3808"},"modified":"2025-05-13T16:21:41","modified_gmt":"2025-05-13T20:21:41","slug":"critics-notebook-tastemakers-of-2011","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/macchiinc.com\/en\/critics-notebook-tastemakers-of-2011\/","title":{"rendered":"Critic\u2019s Notebook: Tastemakers of 2011"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

MONTREAL \u2013 For a good while now, we\u2019ve ended each year in this space with \u201cbest of\u201d lists. At a time when restaurants are too busy to be reviewed (or often closed), I have preferred to wrap things up by underlining the efforts of the sharpest chefs and their most brilliant dishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yet, I always felt we were leaving out some of the people whose foodie efforts extend beyond those lists. Thus, the tastemakers column was created.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Think of all the people who work tirelessly at getting those ingredients to your plate or in your glass, the people who are growing or raising those ingredients. Then there are the folks who work hard to make home cooks think beyond the usual Hamburger Helper. And let\u2019s not forget the chefs who are taking risks on the Montreal scene to make it a more interesting place to eat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As an example, very recently we discussed with someone from the meyer food blog<\/a> about what has to be the most delicious event we have ever thought of and actually done: chocolate tasting!! I know, at first it sounds a bit unusual, I mean you can get a candy bar just about anywhere right? Well, as with other things, chocolate has many forms and types. It can come from different places, be prepared for consumption differently, and in the process it can range from being healthy for you, to downright detrimental for your health.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As you can probably imagine the version that is good for your health is in its most natural form. Learning about these types of things is important, specially when not common knowledge, as healthy eating is so often associated with boring and stale food. In reality you can vary your diet quite a bit, and there\u2019s all sorts of treats (like chocolate) that you can have. In the meantime and while learning some of these not too well known facts we got to eat chocolate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are countless butchers and bakers in Montreal, waking at dawn to haul those carcasses or shape those baguettes. There are plenty of shopkeepers who pay high rents and even higher taxes to supply eager cooks with their favourite Le Creuset pot or cast iron skillet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

When I think deep foodie thoughts in this city, people come to mind like truffle seller Paolo Macchi meeting with chefs over an espresso to show them his latest precious tuber,<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

or a tiny Asian woman called Fong placing chocolates so delicately in boxes at P\u00e2tisserie de Gascogne, or the Lavall\u00e9e brothers at Les Douceurs du March\u00e9 describing bottle after bottle of olive oil in detail to some customer standing in awe before this wall of \u201chuile,\u201d or the ecstatic Chuck Hughes when he won the lobster battle on Iron Chef America.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, there\u2019s a lot more to gourmet Montreal than its fabulous steak frites. Here are some of the people who took the food scene to another level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Favourite ingredient: Gaspor pork<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though I have long been a fan of this tender, tasty and pricey suckling pig, it was only this year that I finally visited Gaspor headquarters at the St-Canut Farm in the Laurentians. Owners Alexandre Aubin and Carl Rousseau have been in the suckling pig farming business since 2003. You\u2019d be hard-pressed to find two more amiable guys, who not only raise the pigs but butcher them and deliver them in person to their Montreal chef customers, including XO, DNA, Laurie Raphael, and Toqu\u00e9! I\u2019ve enjoyed it at SEB in St. Jovite and 11 Madison Park in New York. It\u2019s also FedEx-ed to the French Laundry in California and Canoe in Toronto, and four containers are shipped to Japan annually.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gaspor pigs are a Yorkshire-Landrace mix that are fed on a steady diet of vanilla-scented milk every two hours. \u201cIt\u2019s an expensive way to raise pigs,\u201d said Rousseau, \u201cbut we believe the taste of the meat has more to do with the animals\u2019 feed than the breed. A 10-week-old pig fed with grain will cost $15, yet one fed on this milk diet costs us $110.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have never tasted a nugget of Gaspor pork that didn\u2019t make me swoon. I only wish it was easier for us home cooks to acquire, especially since I\u2019ve tasted the Gaspor bacon, sausages and pulled pork at the Val David Farmer\u2019s Market last summer where Gaspor always has a stand. For now, Gaspor\u2019s products are also sold at the Val David Winter Farmer\u2019s market held on Feb. 12, March 12, April 16 and May 7 from 10 a.m. to to 1 p.m. at the \u00c9cole St-Jean Baptiste at 2580 de l\u2019Eglise St., as well as the summer market held every Saturday from June 4 to Oct. 9. You can also purchase directly from the producer at the St-Canut farm store at 14105 Chemin Dupuis. For more information, check out: gaspor.com<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gutsy chef: Nick Hodge<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I never reviewed the casual restaurant Icehouse (one of Gazette casual-dining critic Sarah Musgrave\u2019s top picks of 2011), yet I dined there often. Sitting at a paper-topped table and watching our waiter dump a bucket of spicy fried chicken right on the table was a revelation. The food was so delicious, the ambience was as spicy as the pulled pork taco, and the booze offerings ranged from bourbon-spiked lemonade to a California cabernet with a bucking bronco on the label. Our city may be able to boast a strong cast of homegrown chefs, but it took this Texas native to show us a new take on how much fun a restaurant could be while still serving great food. If I had my way, I\u2019d eat this sort of finger-lickin\u2019 fun fare every night. Problem is, I\u2019m not the only one thinking that way, thus the crush to nab a table. Sucking back oysters and shelling shrimp on the Icehouse terrasse last summer, I couldn\u2019t help but marvel at how great it was to have this little taste of Texas in our midst. Yum! Icehouse, 51 Roy St. E., Tel: 514- 439-6691<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fantasy kitchen stores: Les Touilleurs, Arthur Quentin, Dante<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As much as I love beautiful ingredients, there\u2019s nothing quite like a fancy kitchen shop to wake up my inner gourmet. For culinary chicness alone, you\u2019d be hard-pressed to find two more beautiful kitchenware shops than Laurier Ave.\u2019s Les Touilleurs or St. Denis St.\u2019s Arthur Quentin. Any item that comes from either of these stores is the nec plus ultra. Don\u2019t be intimidated, though, by the glitzy surroundings. Granted, many items are costly, yet markups are fair and there is plenty here for shoppers on a budget. You also can\u2019t go wrong in the hands of Elena Faita at Quincaillerie Dante, where you\u2019ll find absolutely everything you\u2019ll ever need for the kitchen, ranging from a pizzelle maker to that perfect, flat-edged wooden spoon. And like Les Touilleurs with their \u201cAteliers des Chefs,\u201d Dante can show you how to put all those pots and pans to great use in their popular cooking classes. Both shops offer classes led by several of the city\u2019s top chefs, Les Touilleurs holds them on-site, and Faita offers her classes at the neighbouring Mezza Luna cooking school.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quincaillerie Dante, 6851 St. Dominique St. 514-271-2057; Mezza Luna cooking school: 57 Dante. St. 514-272-5299, ecolemezzaluna.ca; Arthur Quentin, 3960 St-Denis St. 514-843-7513, Les Touilleurs 152 Laurier Ave. W. 514-278-0008.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Coolest producer: Anicet<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Up in the Haute Laurentides, beekeeper Anicet Desrochers makes honey with a true taste of the terroir. Desrochers, 32, is the proud beekeeper, bee breeder and owner of Les Miels D\u2019Anicet. Lanky, laid-back and with a definite hipster style, he also happens to be the largest producer of organic honey in North America. Thirteen years ago, Desrochers and his wife, Anne-Virginie Schmidt, took over the family apiary, the Ferme Apicole Desrochers, renaming it Api Culture Hautes Laurentides. Located in Ferme Neuve, just north of Mont Laurier in the Upper Laurentians, Api Culture Hautes Laurentides includes both the Miels d\u2019Anicet honey production, and a breeding centre for the Russian Primorsky queen bees he sells to other beekeepers. There are now five certified organic honey producers in Quebec, but none come close to the production of Desrochers, who counts about 1,000 hives on his property. Each of those hives has 60,000 to 80,000 bees at work producing the 36,300 to 45,360 kilograms of honey sold each year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The complexity of flavour in the Miels d\u2019Anicet is also making fans of some of Quebec\u2019s top chefs, including Normand Laprise, Martin Picard, Patrice Demers, Fran\u00e7ois Blais and \u00c9ric Gonzalez. \u201cChefs have the greatest impact,\u201d says Desrochers, \u201cbecause they use our products in an exceptional way. These are people who work with artisans, favour small producers and appreciate the signature we bring from our region.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next time you see a jar of Anicet honey, pick it up and suck back a spoonful. The complexity of flavour will have you hooked, putting the honey in that plastic, bear-shaped bottle to shame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Miels d\u2019Anicet products, which besides honey include honey mustards and organic soaps, are available at Rachelle-B\u00e9ry, Au Pain Dor\u00e9 and Premi\u00e8re Moisson, as well as select IGA and Metro supermarkets. For a full list of sales points, visit their website api-culture.com<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sweetest chef: St\u00e9phanie Labelle at P\u00e2tisserie Rhubarbe<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Montreal may be seeing a good influx of baguette and macaron makers, but when it comes to pastries that taste as beautiful as they look, pickings are slim. But there\u2019s a Plateau pastry shop that\u2019s upping the pastry stakes in this city above dreary cupcakes and mealy muffins. It\u2019s small, it\u2019s called P\u00e2tisserie Rhubarbe, and it\u2019s a gem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Owned and operated since last November by a pretty brown-haired p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re by the name of St\u00e9phanie Labelle, Rhubarbe is an authentic \u201cp\u00e2tisserie\u201d where locals come in to pick up such goodies as her lemon tart, caramel mille-feuilles, cheesecake and pistachio cake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The sunny shop is modest, with 12 seats for those who want to enjoy a cake and coffee on-site. Framed in white walls and tall windows, the space features a refrigerated case filled with sophisticated pastries and a few cakes, as well as chocolates and macarons. Shelves across the room are lined with jars of homemade jams, jellies and compotes. Bestsellers include the lemon tart, tea cakes and p\u00e2te de fruit (fruit jellies).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI thought there was place for this sort of pastry shop because I was seeing the same thing everywhere, cakes topped with raspberries in February,\u201dsaid the 28-year-old chef of her lovely little p\u00e2tisserie. And to add icing on the cake, Labelle is also now in charge of the desserts at restaurant Laloux. Sweet. P\u00e2tisserie Rhubarbe, 5091 de Lanaudi\u00e8re St., 514-903-3395.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wine agent to watch: Oenopole<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oenopole isn\u2019t the biggest wine agency, but it\u2019s the one everyone is talking about. Responsible for introducing Montrealers to many of the wines that the city\u2019s best sommeliers are recommending tableside, this trio of two sommeliers, Theo Diamantis and Aurelia Filion, as well as the business brains, Alexis Fortier-Lalonde, have compiled a portfolio of terroir-driven, natural wines with an Old World-centric palate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The emphasis is also on wines that marry well with food, and you\u2019ll find their products everywhere from the casual Nouveau Palais to the Relais & Ch\u00e2teaux Toqu\u00e9!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Though they import a good number of French and Italian wines, their biggest strength has been the introduction of fabulous Greek wines that had limited exposure in the Montreal market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chances are, the next time you\u2019re offered a delicious Greek wine in a restaurant, that bottle comes from Oenopole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yet, besides their impressive private import portfolio, they have about 60 listings at the SAQ. Just look for their name on the back of the bottle. And if you\u2019re interested in meeting some interesting wine producers, check out their website (oenopole.ca), where they announce coming wine and food-tasting dinners in some of the city\u2019s top restaurants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shaking up the scene: Boulud and Ramsay<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This year, no news marked the Montreal restaurant scene as much as the coming of Gordon Ramsay. The fact that he was not going to open a new restaurant, but revamp a Montreal institution, Outremont\u2019s Laurier BBQ, left everyone gobsmacked. Then in June, he arrived, charmed everyone to the best of his abilities, and took off after less than 24 hours on-site. But what he has left behind is a fun little restaurant, not in the least bit Michelin-star worthy, but a great family eatery where the food is better than it could be and the prices are more than reasonable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And Ramsay wasn\u2019t the only star to set his sites on Montreal in 2011. Uber French chef Daniel Boulud also announced his intentions to take over the restaurant in the soon-to-be-reopened, and even more iconic, Ritz Hotel. The 56-year-old chef, widely regarded as one of the world\u2019s best, said of our city: \u201cAfter a love affair of many years with Montreal, I\u2019m proud to be coming to North America\u2019s most European city to join its roster of fine chefs \u2013 many of whom are dear friends \u2013 and to take part in your love of fine food and vibrant culinary culture.\u201d You\u2019d think the local chefs might be worried about a bigwig like Boulud coming to town, yet not so. \u201cI\u2019m excited,\u201d said Marc-Andr\u00e9 Royal, the chef-owner of Le St-Urbain and bakery, La B\u00eate \u00e0 Pain. \u201cI like his New York restaurants and what he does. It\u2019s pretty French, classic, and I like that. It will be a perfect fit for Montreal. For sure, I\u2019m going to try it. It will be great to keep us on our toes. We\u2019ll definitely feel the pressure.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here\u2019s hoping chef Boulud will have as successful a run in Montreal as chef Ramsay \u2013 and that he gives us a little more face time. (Gordon, where art thou?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He slayed the Flay: Chuck Hughes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chuck Hughes opened a new restaurant in 2011 called Bremner, but that\u2019s not the reason everyone was talking about this Montreal chef. No, Chuck\u2019s a star because in 2011 he competed on the U.S. Food Network show Iron Chef and beat American Bobby Flay. It was only the second time a Canadian chef had won an Iron Chef battle (the other being Vancouver\u2019s Rob Feenie), and Hughes was also the youngest Canadian to compete. When the Canadian Food TV episode aired last March, local foodies exploded with joy and pride. Social media networks like Twitter and Facebook were ablaze with news of Hughes\u2019s victory. Though millions watched the show, there is one person who has yet to see it: Hughes. \u201cI can\u2019t do it,\u201d he says. \u201cI think about the number of people watching and I get too nervous.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a9 Copyright (c) The Montreal Gazette<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: http:\/\/www.montrealgazette.com\/entertainment\/Critic+Notebook+Tastemakers+2011\/5953131\/story.html#ixzz1jB5f3lnK<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

MONTREAL \u2013 For a good while now, we\u2019ve ended each year in this space with \u201cbest of\u201d lists. At a time when restaurants are too busy to be reviewed (or often closed), I have preferred to wrap things up by underlining the efforts of the sharpest chefs and their most brilliant dishes. 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